Huanchaco is a pretty little fishing come surfing village which is proud to be a world surfing reserve. Home to the Caballitos de totora that line the seafront and have been used for the last 3000 years by fishermen. I really liked the happy, friendly vibe Huanchaco had. The people were very nice and would often engage with you, the markets great, there are plenty of places to surf, great sunsets and nice warm climate.
Accessed via Trujillo you can take the orange local bus or a colectivo to Huanchaco for around s/2 (50p), depending on the number of stops it takes around 45 minutes to get there and you pass the famous Chan Chan ruins around half way.
Surfing
There are several surf spots in Huanchaco, with sandy beaches for the most part broken up with areas of rocks – booties are definitely recommended. I didn’t have booties and got many a cuts from sharp rocks and also some sea urchin spines stuck in my feet.
Left side of the pier – Normally bigger waves for more experienced surfers but also small waves closer to the beach especially on days where there is little ot no swell. There is an old river to the far left where it is easier to paddle out from. There is also a break closer to the pier but the current can be strong here and quickly pull you towards the pier.
Right side of the pier – Immediately to the right is the beginner’s spot where surf lessons are held. Waves here are very small (sometimes non-existent) and it’s also one of the more rocky areas.
Further to the right there are many waves with next to no one in the water. On days when there is large swell and/or wind the current here can be very strong and you can find you’ve drifted all the way down the beach in next to no time. If you stay pier side of ‘Big Ben’ and it’ll be easier to retain your position, after that you can get swept to the right quickly and it’s usually easier to surf in and walk back up the beach to another spot.
Board rentals
There is no shortage of board rental shops in town but the shop we were recommended was EcoSurf. Rental packages include wetsuits and booties for a good price. With the environment in mind it’s a nice little shop where you can purchase eco-friendly products and there is a beach clean-up organised by the shop every Sunday at 3pm which is a great way to give something back to the town.
Where to stay
ATMA
By far the best hostel in town, I’m bias because I volunteered there but also everyone loves this hostel! For the most part, people end up staying here longer than intended and it books up quickly even in low season. I spent two wonderful weeks here and I loved the culture. The hostel itself it fresh and clean with plenty of areas to chill and hammocks to relax on. This hostel seems to attract lovely and likeminded people and we all spent many hours chilling, cooking together and all getting to know each other.
ATMA boasts a well equipped kitchen where most people prepare more culinary delights than the hostel norm. There are also two fluffy bunnies hopping around the courtyard and a sunbathing tortoise called Dondogo. What’s more their yoga studio on the second floor overlooks the ocean and is a very tranquil spot to practice. The yoga classes are very affordable Atma, and they run sessions every day and the studio is often open throughout the day if you want to do your own practice. To top it all off there is a roof terrace where you can catch some sun and check out the waves. All of this is but a stone’s throw from the beach and means it’s the perfect little refuge to relax in after being on the road for a while.
Food
Mandala
The other main hostel in Huanchaco is Mandala, located closer to the centre of town. I didn’t stay here but I did visit for their buffet style brunch from 11am on Sundays. All the food is vegan, they serve it with their own homemade tasty bread, veggie patties, pancakes, fruit, granola, hummus and juice, all for s/18.
QueQues Brazil
Discovered by my lovely friend and fellow volunteer Emma, this small bakery is located slightly on the outskirt of town. They sell wholemeal breads, cheap but delicious cake, and cinnamon buns. Got caught out a couple of times as it is closed between two and four in the afternoon but if you don’t fancy the walk you can always pick up its produce from the mercado in the centre of town instead with a slight mark up.
Mercado
My favourite mercado that I’ve been to in Peru. It might seem on the small side but it seems to have everything you need and more. The best time to go is in the morning but it is open all day, some stalls do begin to close after lunchtime though. Fruit and vegetable stalls are found on the left hand side with a very charming lady towards the back who sells excellent coffee where you can choose your bean strength. She and a neighbouring stall also sell nuts, dried fruit and other healthy snacks including the best (not so healthy) chocolate peanuts. In the middle isle you can find a good store that sells every kind of staple you can think of. I bought oats, rice and quinoa all at very low prices.
Cremoladas Oceano
Recommended by my friend Nicolas, this small store is located near the pier diagonally opposite Urcia surf shop. They must have 20 or more different flavours to choose from, from fruits to chocolate and rum. A mix between ice and ice cream they cost just s/4 for two different flavours.
Chan Chan
A 5000 year old Chimu ruin situated between Trujillo and Huanchaco, worth the visit if you have a few hours to kill. It’s pretty amazing that this place was built so long ago and yet it’s still standing. There are many intricate details in the design which demonstrate the connection they had with their environment such as decorations of waves and fish, representing the ocean currents. Once you’re there you’ll see that Chan Chan is but a well preserved section amongst a greater amount of ruins extending all the way to the opposite side of the main road.
To get there you can take the local bus from Trujillo or Huanchaco and ask for Chan Chan, this will cost just s/2 (50p). From where the bus leaves you there is a 500m walk to the entrance of the ruins, or if you’re lucky you can hitch a ride with a passing car. The entrance fee is s/10 and if you can read Spanish you can buy a guide book that tells you everything you need to know about the ruins for s/3. If you’d like a real guide (including an English speaking one) you’ll need to pay extra, the cost will depend on how many of you are in a group. The bigger the group the cheaper the cost so best to travel with people or wait to join a group. Without a real guide or the book, the visit will be pretty useless. There isn’t any information once you’re inside so you won’t have any as to what you’re looking at.
Pacayasmayo
A quiet town where there isn’t much to do apart from surf or kitesurf. The waves here are consistent and long but the actual surf spot itself is a little out of town so some people take a tuktuk as walking one way can take 20-30 mins depending on where you’re staying. There are a few hostels and restaurants here and the beach front is nice to walk along. You can also walk up to the mirador in the north of town and not only get a great view of the town and it’s surroundings but also admire the murals on the walls surrounding .
BEACH YOU THERE 